HONDARRIBIA

Inside Hondarribia’s fortified city walls, lies the charming Old Town. The Santa María Gate originally was and still is, the main entrance to town.

This medieval gate greets visitors and leads them to Kale Nagusia (Main Street), where some of the most beautiful buildings of the Old Town can be found. One such building is the town hall of Hondarribia which is housed in a baroque building from the 18th century.

There are two other impressive baroque buildings found on the Kale Nagusia. One is the Zuloaga Palace, an urban palace from the 18th century that today houses the municipal library and historic archive. The other is the 17th century Casadevante House which is now the Hotel Pampinot (unfortunately the hotel is temporarily closed).

Just meters away from the Casadevante House stands the Church of Santa María de la Asunción y del Manzano.

The main street ends at Weapons Square (“Plaza de Armas” in Spanish), which for centuries has been the main square of Hondarribia and witness to celebrations, receptions, proclamations, any many other important events.

The highlight of the Plaza de Armas is a magnificent building called Castle of Charles V which now functions as a Parador Hotel. It is possible to get a glimpse even if you are not staying in the hotel by visiting the bar that has a separate side entrance.

From Weapons Square, we recommend to weave back and forth through the streets of the Old Town, making sure not to miss other highlights of the area such as the Guipuzcoa Square. You can eventually make your way down to the Marina Neighborhood.

The Church of Santa María de la Asunción y del Manzano was built in the 15^th and 16^th centuries on top of the ruins of old walls and a roman church.

Although the construction of the building started in 1474, it lasted much longer than expected, since at the time Castile was trying to conquer the Kingdom of Navarre. At some point, the renovation of the medieval fortifications was so urgent, that material for the construction of the church had to be transferred to the fortifications.

Finally in 1549, after many battles, the first construction phase was considered to be finished and the building was consecrated.

Although the church was mainly built in gothic style, during the 16^th century, some renaissance style elements were added such as the entrance that we see today. Another highlight of the building is the baroque bell tower from the 18^th century from Francisco de Ibero.

If you are able to enter the church, make sure you head upstairs and check out the beautiful organ.

The impressive building that today houses the Parador of Hondarribia was originally a fortress built at the end of the 10^th century by King Sancho II of Pamplona.

Today, it is known as the “Castle of Charles V” because of the extension and restoration works ordered by Charles V in the 16^th century.

Its location on the hill overlooks the Bidasoa River, Hendaye and Txingudi Bay, making it the perfect position for defensive purposes. For this reason, the castle was mainly used as a barracks and also for the house of the governor. Generally, it is said that it functioned as a “palace-castle.”

The most important guest to have ever stayed at the Castle of Charles V was probably the Spanish Royal Family, who in 1660 lived in the castle while waiting for the marriage of the King’s daughter, the Infanta María Theresa, with the future King of France, Louis XIV. That marriage, together with the Treaty of the Pyrenees that was signed on the nearby Pheasant Island, put an end to a long conflict between France and Spain.

Hondarribia saw many battles due to its location right on the border with France. These battles took a toll on the Castle of Charles V. At the end of the 18th century the building was severely damaged by French troops and remained a ruin until it was rehabilitated and transformed into a National Parador in 1968. Since then, the castle has served as a hotel managed by the Spanish government.

The Marina Neighborhood is located right next to the old port (“Kai Zahar” in Basque) and is where the fishermen of Hondarribia lived for many centuries. Situated between the walled Old Town and the water, it is an area full of beautiful Basque style houses with colorful shutters and balconies.

Apart from its lovely architecture, the Marina Neighborhood is famous because of its high concentration of bars and restaurants (see the Restaurants and Pintxo Bars sections for more info).

There is always a lively atmosphere in the area, especially around the San Pedro and Santiago Streets. When the weather permits, the terraces from the bars and restaurants open up and add to an already nice atmosphere.

While in the Marina Neighborhood, it is also possible to take a walk by the Butrón Boardwalk (“Paseo de Butrón”) that stretches along the water. From there, you can enjoy the fantastic views of the ocean, the estuary of the Bidasoa River and the Txingudi Bay with Hendaye (France) on the other side.

Hondarribia is home to a beautiful 800 m beach. The beach has lifeguards, bathrooms, showers, changing rooms as well as some activities to keep children entertained.

Because of all the facilities and its quiet waters, Hondarribia’s beach is popular among locals and tourists alike, especially families with children.

There is also a very nice seafront promenade that surrounds the beach and the port, continuing south next to the water to the old port (“Kai Zaharra" in Basque).

Paid parking is available right next to the beach.

The Bay Path (“Camino de la bahía” in Spanish) is a trail that spans a distance of 14 km (about 8.7 miles), starting at the eastern end of Hendaye’s beach (France). The path continues by the waterside up to the bridge that crosses to Irun. It also goes further into Spain, crossing the town of Hondarribia.

Following the Bay Path right next to the water in Hondarribia, you will see the walls that surround the Old Town to cross next the Marina neighborhood. The path continues surrounding the beach to finally end at the Higuer Lighthouse.

Inaugurated in 1947, Hermandad de Pescadores is one of the most famous and traditional restaurants of Hondarribia. They cook traditional Basque cuisine, specializing mainly in fish and seafood. The two star dishes of the restaurant are fish soup and hake.

The restaurant is located in an emblematic building from 1361 which was originally constructed to house the brotherhood of fishermen (“cofradía de pescadores”). This building was once the center of the local fishing industry and is where fisherman stored their nets for centuries.

Interestingly enough, the building was actually partially built with sand from the beach that went all the way up to its doors. You will notice today that the town has since expanded much further and the water is several blocks away.

The average price per person at Hermandad de Pescadores is 40 €.

Restaurant Sebastián is located in the heart of Hondarribia’s Old Town, on Main Street (“Kale Nagusia” in Basque). The restaurant was inaugurated in 1986 in the location where there was previously a general shop that sold all kinds of goods such as food, tobacco and clothing.

The decoration of the restaurant tries to keep that old general store charm. The atmosphere is intimate and relaxed – a perfect place for a romantic date.

The cuisine at Restaurant Sebastián is based on Basque heritage and is characterized by top quality raw ingredients. Miguel Soto, chef in charge of the restaurant for the past 10 years, defines Sebastián as being about, “50% gastronomy (good eating) and 50% well being”.

Restaurant Sebastián offers a daily set menu (menú del día), which changes depending on the season, for 25 € (taxes included), as well as a tasting menu for 49.50 € (taxes included).

The grill house Laia Erretegia is located 1.5 km away from the Old Town, on the outskirts of Hondarribia in a rural landscape that is surrounded by farm houses. The relaxed atmosphere in the middle of nature can be very well enjoyed from the sunny terrace that offers amazing views of Mount Aia and Mount Jaizkibel.

The Restaurant Laia Erretegia is run by the Ayala brother and sister: Jon and Arantxa. All year-round the restaurant functions as a grill house with its star dishes being ribs, turbot and bream. During the cider season (Jan. - April), the restaurant also functions as a cider house.

From Monday to Friday they offer a very attractive menú del día (daily set menu) for lunch for 20.90 € (taxes included).

Restaurant Sugarri is run by Manu Thalamas and Bixente Muñoz, the latter who is also the chef of the emblematic Bar Gran Sol. Their cuisine is based on tradition, their attention to detail and their creative personal touches added to the dishes. The main feature of each dish is the produce that is balanced with tradition, technique, vanguard and creativity.

Sugarri is located at the Hotel Río Bidasoa, in an exclusive and quiet environment, surrounded by beautiful green scenery, however, it is only a 5 minute walk away from the Old Town.

Apart from the menu, they also offer a tasting menu for 46 € (taxes included).

Restaurant Abarka is located in the outskirts of Hondarribia, in a beautiful natural landscape. It is housed in a traditional Basque farmhouse, built from stone and wood and features rustic interior decoration.

At Abarka, they strive to create a warm and welcoming atmosphere as well as to make every meal a five senses experience. The terrace invites guests to sit down and enjoy the green scenery, making the visit about more than just having a great meal.

The local produce and the ingredients in season are always the focus at Abarka. The menu offers a nice selection of both fish and meat. Apart from various tasting menus, they also offer a daily set menu (menú del día) for 24 € (taxes included).

Restaurant Alameda first started out as a popular snack bar in town, but today has evolved into one of the best restaurants in Hondarribia, currently possessing one Michelin star. The restaurant is run by the third generation of the Txapartegi family – the three brothers Mikel, Kepa and Gorka.

At Restaurant Alameda importance is given to the raw ingredients. The cuisine is based on the use of quality local produce to create attractive dishes that always satisfy the customers. It is a cuisine with roots, but at the same time, it is modern and authentic.

Restaurant Alameda is located in the entrance to the Old Town, just steps away from the Santa María Gate. It offers a warm and familiar atmosphere, with an interior characterized by its minimalist and stylish design that includes various works from local artists.

Apart from the menu, they offer three tasting menus that range from 38.50 € to 88 € (taxes included, drinks not included).

If you are visiting Hondarribia and only have the opportunity to try the pintxos at one place, then it should be at Bar Gran Sol. Chef Bixente Muñoz oversees this family-run bar that has become somewhat of an institution in town, frequented by locals and visitors alike.

The counter of the Gran Sol offers a large variety of pintxos (so called “cold pintxos”) that range from traditional Basque recipes to bold new creations. However, it is also possible and highly recommended, to order from the menu of warm pintxos which are cooked on the spot. The pintxos of Gran Sol have won many contests on both Basque and Spanish levels.

Next to the bar, the same family also owns the Restaurant Gran Sol, based on simple cuisine and traditional flavors. The Restaurant Gran Sol offers a daily set menu for 28 € (taxes included).

Sardara is one of the most recent pintxo bars to have opened its doors in Hondarribia (July, 2014) and it’s making waves. The interior is beautifully decorated with a warm wooden ceiling that is contrasted with cool concrete floors and stone walls. The minimalist interior design, with its subdued color palette, complement the pintxo bar and allows for the real stars, the pintxos, to take center stage.

There are many beautiful creations displayed on the bar but there is also a kitchen ready to prepare a menu full of warm pintxos and raciones. Definitely, don’t leave without ordering a few. Some of our favorites are the tuna carpaccio and the grilled scallops (“vieiras" in Spanish).

The name “Sardara” makes reference to a phenomenon related to the fishing tradition in Hondarribia. Every autumn, the tunas come up closer to the surface of the water, following the schools of anchovies and other small fish. The tunas surround the small fish and then take turns as they plow through them, eating as many fish as possible. This phenomenon is known as “sardara.” In the past, the sardara was important because the fishermen from Hondarribia fished “by eye,” waiting for the sardara to occur so that they could catch the tuna.

While visiting Sardara, make sure to check out the television at the back of the bar that shows exactly what its name means.

Vinoteka Ardoka, located on the popular San Pedro Street, is a wine & pintxo bar. Mikel Rico opened its doors in 2008, as an alternative to the traditional pintxo bars, having a bigger focus on wine.

Vinoteka Ardoka offers a wide variety of both cold and warm pintxos as well as raciones, which are actually among the best in town. The star pintxos of Vinoteka Ardoka are cod confit with grilled peppers, tuna carpaccio and lollipop of the vegetables garden (pork ear wrapped in zucchini and ham with raspberry sauce and a grape, caramel and txakoli sauce lollipop).

However, what distinguishes Vinoteka Ardoka is the large selection of wine which is probably the best in town. The wine menu has between 40 and 50 items that change every year.

Almost hidden in a quiet corner at the very end of the popular San Pedro Street stands Restaurant Cafe Goxodenda – a local favorite. Goxodenda was originally a patisserie (“goxodenda” actually means patisserie in Basque), but over time it has expanded and become a proper bar and restaurant.

Apart from the wide variety of pintxos on display at the counter, there is also a menu of warm pintxos that are cooked to order. Many of these pintxos have won awards in contests.

Although Goxodenda may seem like just another bar offering raciones and platos combinados, it is much more than that. They offer a very nice menú del día (daily set menu) for 12 € (taxes included) which is definitely superior to anything else you may find in Hondarribia for the same price. If you are on a budget or just want to try something more local, this is a great choice.

The Bar Restaurant Yola Berri is located in the popular San Pedro Street and offers a wide variety of traditional pintxos as well as a menu of warm pintxos, raciones and cazuelitas. They specialize in traditional Basque cuisine and in particular, fish. Yola Berri has a very good price-quality ratio.

There is also a dining area in the underground floor where you can enjoy the menú del día (daily set menu) for about 12 €.