SAN FERMIN –
RUNNING OF THE BULLS

Celebrations in honor of San Fermin have been taking place in Pamplona since before the 12^th century, but these were originally done on October 10^th.

It was only in 1591 when, due to the weather inconveniences, the government of Pamplona and its bishop agreed to move the celebration to July. July 7^th was already an established date for a fair that featured the running of bulls.

By moving the date, these two separate celebrations were joined.

In 1921, Ernest Hemingway moved to Paris to work as a journalist for a Canadian newspaper. Two years later he visited Pamplona during San Fermin for the first time, looking for material to finish a story.

From the very beginning, he was profoundly affected by the spectacle of bullfighting, so much so that he kept coming back. During San Fermin of 1924, Hemingway ran in the encierros for the first time (although some say he never did) and was witness to the first casualty of the running of the bulls.

It wasn’t until San Fermines of 1925 that he started to put together material for a novel. By then, he had made good friends in Pamplona and enjoyed the atmosphere of the old town and the Plaza del Castillo during the festival.

He frequented the bars Txoko and Café Iruña, as well as several others that have already disappeared. He also became the friend to several matadors and accompanied them during the dressing rituals before entering the ring.

Just a little over a year later (October of 1926), his novel “The Sun Also Rises” was published. It narrates the adventures of a group of American and British expatriates who travel to the festival of San Fermin to watch the running of the bulls and the bullfights.

Although he didn’t know it back then, this book would change the San Fermin festival and the city of Pamplona forever.

The running of the bulls is always preceded by the same traditional ritual. Before the encierro, the runners gather around the image of San Fermin located in the Calle de Santo Domingo, just steps away from the corral where the bulls are kept.

Five minutes before 8 am, the runners sing the traditional song a“A San Fermín pedimos” first in Spanish (“A San Fermín pedimos, por ser nuestro patrón, nos guíe en el encierro dándonos su bendición”) and then in Basque (“Entzun arren San Fermin, zu zaitugu patroi, zuzendu gure oinak, entzierro hontan otoi”) which can be translated as “We ask San Fermín, because he is our patron saint, to guide us in the running of the bulls and give us his blessing.”

This is followed by the shout "¡Viva San Fermín! ¡Gora San Fermín!” (Long live San Fermin!). And the whole singing is repeated two more times during those 5 nerve-racking last minutes before the start.

At 8 o’clock, the first of four fireworks is launched, indicating that the running of the bulls has started – the corral door is opened. It is time for the first participants to start running. The second firework explosion indicates that all the bulls have left the corral.

By then, the six bulls are already running down the streets of Pamplona’s old town: from the Santo Domingo Street to the town hall, then through the Mercaderes Street to continue along the Estafeta Street and finishing in the bullring.

It all happens very quickly and usually the encierro is over in under 4 minutes. Once in a while, however, the herd of bulls separates making it even more dangerous. That is why the four firework rockets are so important – they inform the runners of the current situation.

Once all the bulls have reached the bullring and the door of the bullring is closed, the third firework rocket is launched. The fourth and final rocket indicates that all the bulls are locked at the bullring’s corral.

The festival of San Fermin starts in the square in front of the town hall where a crowd begins gathering the morning of July 6th waiting for the clock to strike 12. People traditionally don a red handkerchief and wear white clothes to the txupinazo – clothes that you don’t mind to if they get ruined, because they will not stay white for that long.

As 12 pm nears, the alcohol is flowing. To say that people in the square are packed like sardines would be an understatement, so be prepared!

Shortly before 12 o’clock, the mayor of Pamplona appears on the town hall’s balcony accompanied by a notable person chosen to launch the chupinazo that year. When 12 o’clock arrives, that “someone” shouts “Pamploneses, Pamplonesas, Viva San Fermín! Gora San Fermín!" (people of Pamplona, long live San Fermín!)” and the firework rocket (“txupinazo”) is launched.

At this moment, the roar of the crowd explodes. Thousands of bottles are popped open and everyone takes the red handkerchief from the pocket and hangs it around their neck. It is the beginning of a long week of drinking, partying and excesses.

After the chupinazo, people start to slowly disperse throughout the old town while celebrating the beginning of San Fermin by drinking, singing, dancing, etc. It is also a tradition for people living in the old town to start throwing buckets of water from windows and balconies to the people partying in the streets (very appreciated because it gets really hot!).

Pamplona is proudly home to the second largest bullring of Spain and fourth largest in the world. Although the bullfights start at 6:30 pm, for a lot of party-goers it is the beginning of the day, while others may not have even gone to sleep yet.

Pamplona’s bullring is divided in two very differentiated areas: sun and shade. It is very different not only because of the heat, but also because of the atmosphere. Of course, tickets are more expensive in the shade, where the public is quieter and it is possible to enjoy the spectacle.

On the other hand, the sun is where the peñas (clubs of members that unite to celebrate San Fermin together, wearing characteristic clothing and banner) and party-goers sit. It is an spectacle on its own, with an incredible party atmosphere. Kalimotxo (red wine and coke) and sangría are passed from one hand to another while several music bands play.

The bullfight traditionally begins with the presentation of all of the participants in the ring. Then starts the bullfight itself: six bulls for three matadors, that is, six “faenas.” Each faena is divided in three parts, with the bull finally being killed in the final part.

Once the bull is dead, the president of the ring decides how much of a good job the matador did, granting him one ear, two ears or two ears and the tail. However, if he wasn’t good at all, the audience will boo him.

During San Fermin, people go to the bullfight to enjoy the spectacle in the ring as much as they go to eat and drink. It is tradition to have a break after the third bull to have a snack (“merienda” in Spanish) accompanied by something to drink (usually sangría).

The merienda can be something as simple as a sandwich, but some people take it seriously, carrying with them a real meal with multiple dishes, etc. Locals are happy to share (especially with foreigners that aren’t aware of the tradition). As time goes by and the alcohol flows, generosity also increases.

On the night of July 14^th, as midnight gets closer, people start to gather in the square in front of the town hall singing the traditional farewell song “pobre de mí, pobre de mí, que se han acabado las fiestas de San Fermín” (Poor me, poor me, because it is the end of the San Fermín fiesta). It is tradition to carry candles and/or to hold the red handkerchief high between the hands while singing.

It is a sad moment as the fiesta comes to and end, but also the beginning of the count down for the following year. Although more and more people attend the “Pobre de mí” each year, it is not as crowded as the txupinazo.

As its name indicates, the Fiesta of San Fermin is dedicated to the saint with the same name and, due to its catholic origin, there are several religious celebrations throughout the week.

The most important of them is the procession of San Fermin on July 7^th. The saint figurine leaves the San Lorenzo church at 10 am and parades through the old town for about 90 minutes and is finally returned to the chapel.

Music also plays an important role during the week of Sanfermin. Each peña (club of members that unite to celebrate San Fermin together) has a music band that plays all day long throughout the streets of Pamplona and there is also the Municipal Music Band, called “La Pamplonesa.”

In addition there are many free concerts, such as the jazz cycle in the Paseo Sarasate and Basque traditional music.

Every morning, the parade of giants and big-heads tours Pamplona’s old town, entertaining both young and old. During the day, there are games organized for children. And at 10pm, the traditional bull of fire – a wooden structure with the shape of a bull that is carried by a man and has fireworks in its horn – chases children around the square in front of the city hall.

One hour later (11pm) it is time for the daily firework show. Everyday for about half an hour, fireworks are launched from the Ciudadela Park. Locals traditionally gather around the park, where it is possible to lay on the grass and comfortably enjoy the show.

To say that Pamplona gets crowded is an understatement. Not only does it get completely packed for a week, but everyone is looking to party – the city goes completely crazy. If you don’t like crowds, maybe San Fermín isn’t for you. Or at least, we would recommend you to avoid visiting on the weekend.

Pamplona is a safe place all year around. However, during San Fermin, the large amount of visitors attracts pickpockets. Like in any crowded situation, common sense should be used. Don’t leave your belongings unattended, try to carry only the money that you will need and leave any important documents at home.